29 June Foncebadón to Molinaseca

Attempted to start early, held up by the random screams through the night. Still managed to see the sun peep over the hills around us. Bloody beautiful.

Then a bit more of an uphill climb, destination Cruz de Ferro. Missed the early morning crowds allowing some time to contemplate why we are here ( no answer for all you smart arses). Get some photos then on again.

Continued on through some lovely alpine appearing flora, though at times difficult to concentrate as we  came down some 900m, at one time some 400m in a couple of km. my toes are still complaining. 

Had planned to go further but the beauty of Molinaseca, with the cool of the river and many locals enjoying it, combined with the heat of the day convinced us to stay. The hotel with washing machine also helped!

28th June Astorga to Foncebaddon

Started the day with a fabulous brekky in one the smallest villages. Friendly proprietor who sent us off 

with full tummies and happy minds.

We followed a straight road with many pilgrims, a pilgrim traffic jam if you like. The road was slowly climbing higher but it was gradual so we barely noticed.

Dare I say it was nice to be back in the hills!!! The flat terrain we had endured the last couple of weeks really messed with your mind with the monotony. Even the villages we walk through are more vibrant and pleasing to the eye.

Stopped for a break in Rabanal del camino and caught up with our Irish friends.

6km to go for the day and it was all uphill but not subtle anymore. A good test to see how much stronger we had all become. Passed with (nearly) flying colours

. Arrived in Foncebadden and had just enough steps left to get to the first albergue. Less said about that place the better. However next door tho, we discovered a medieval restaurant/bar that served, how do I say, slabs of meat!

Amazing and fabulous but not what we expected at the top of the mountain.

27th June San Martin del camino to Astorga

Chilly start to the morning with such an early start, saw the sun rise behind us.

 it was lovely to leave the roads and we soon went off Ito the fields again. How nice it was to be walking through people's farms again, chatting to the cows rather than been blown about by cars and trucks. Made friends again with some hills and interestingly enough after 25 days of walking they don't seem so bad.

Walked over a very old bridge-again.

Then on on on over a few hills, though we were taken by a mirage on top of a plateau, but in fact it was real. A donation for  a cool drink or fresh fruit...mmmm.

Eventually into Astorga, one of the two ancient roman centres. Unfortunately up, up and up the hill to the city. Beautiful cathedral and a gaudi designed bishops residence ( looks like something from Disney!).

 Finished with dinner in the auberge, as much too late at the restaurants, with a couple of Irish friends ( hi Brian and Denise)

26th June León to San Martin del camino

We all slept in till about 7am for a change! No little man waking us with buenos dias, no noisy travellers busily preparing their packs. So a bit of a late start comparatively because of course we also had to consume a hotel breakfast before departing. Walked through the suburbs of León, watching the city wake up, nothing happens too early in Spain. Happened upon a little man who leaves food out for the pilgrims, wants nothing in return and it appears that is how he fills his days.

Again we walk along side a road/ highway, not too bad as we do leave it occasionally to see some sights, like these funny little bodegas planted all over hills. Apparently for storing wine and cheese and sometimes as a smokehouse for the jamon ( ham)

A reasonably big day (26km) but the waking wasn't too hard. Must have been all the rest we had at the parador hotel. Still looking forward to the beer and crocs waiting for us in San Martin.

25 June mansilla de las mulas to León

Planned lazy day today. Bus at 7:45 to León, stopped just outside the bus station at a funky little cafe called .... For breakfast then onto the parador. We felt comfortable doing this as the trip is said to be a little monotonous, and even Brierly says its alright!

As it turns out the walk wasn't terrible, we were glad to put our spare time to good use, looked around the hotel which was initially built in the C12, sub sequentially used as hospital, barracks, prison and even a horse stub until 1969. During the Spanish civil war it's use as a prison has been well documented, many prisoners perished during this dark period.

 

We also saw the magnificent León cathedral, early gothic those of you who have an interest in these things.

Wandered through the museé outlining the history of this city. 

For lunch we did a tapas crawl, testing the wines of course and the Tapas found some excellent places

Dinner was organised by Ali, directed by the concierge. We met up with the American girls and wandered down to "Casa Rafa". We were after the local speciality roast lamb or suckling pig. What a meal, plata primera was

-octopus (though the big suckers tended to stick to your tongue)

-special potato ,like a potato pattie with ham

- Iberian Jamon (ham:beautiful)

-Mildly salted anchovies

-Tortilla (Spanish Fritata with potato)

By this time we were all a little full, then the main course came out- slow roasted baby goat (Galib you would have loved it!). We struggled through what we could but the need to lie down became nearly overwhelming. So struggle back to the Parador, and a nice bed with sheets. (Not to mention big towels, real showers and baths... So exciting! For those of you who have lived with a travel towel will understand)

24th June. El burgo renero to mansilla de las mulas

As many of our fellow travellers have noted these last few sections have been hard, perhaps not necessarily physical ( but they are not easy!). The endless paths into the distance with expected town that stay hidden until the very last, sapping the energy associated with the expectation of seeing them appear. We call these pop-up towns, just like the pop-up inserts in cards. 

At our first stop reliegos, was only 12 km out. Liz set a cracking pace so that she could get the morning over and done with. Clearly not in the mood on the Meseta. Had a couple of coffees there at hippest place in town : bar torro. Complete with an eccentric elvis loving proprietor, walls covered in graffiti. Check it out in the movie!

Luckily  we attempt to finish walking before midday, when the temperatures are acceptable. This afternoon when our travel partner Zara appeared the temperature was 37c outside. Luckily not humid!

We are now in Mansilla de las Mulas at the municipal e albergue. An ancient walled town, unfortunately much of the walls have gone. Trout are visible in the stream nearby!

23 June Ledigos to El Burgos Ranero

Talk about one horse towns, didn't even see one of those. Ledigos is very small <100 people live here. The albergue / bar / corner store is where we stayed. Other wise not much here. Still quiet is good sometimes. Ali cooked us a tuna and pea pasta- sounds weird, tastes great!

Today we though of as a semi rest day, chance to keep feet in good condition, and a chance to see sahagún. Said to have some wonderful sights, we wandered around town and saw most if not all of the monasteries, churches and such. Still struggle how old some of these constructions are, and perhaps how bláise the locals seem....

We then trained into our stop for the night. As in caught the local transport. What a wonderful welcome from the hospitallers! I think we got the last 3 beds! A gorgeous place using the mud and straw in construction which is very common in this area. Able to cook again tonight and thankfully continue our red wine training. (Check out brierley p171)

A very entertaining evening with our generous hospitaliser giving massage and therepy to all the gimpie pilgrims in the dining room no less.

22 June Carron de Los condos to Ledigos

Left Carron early in the morning after a self derived breakfast of capachino and magdelinas. Left the nuns to clean our room- lucky we didn't leave a mess!

Potentially one of biggest days, with a 17 km stretch with little relief: then another 6 km or so on top of that. At last feet don't seem to be getting worse....

But as we started to walk an inversion fog enveloped us, keeping us cool. The hottest it got was prob. Only 26c big difference to what we expected of 26-36c and hot dry winds! There are a few stops along the way to rest, but water is nonpotable: and no cafe con leche ( coffee with milk). Luckily an enterprising fellow has a stall that sells all sorts of refreshments. 

We are one in Legios feet up, beer on hand...

20 June Castrojeriz to Fromista

After such a wet and cold day yesterday, it dawns a brand new day, still cool, at least not raining. As said woke to the chants and monk...

Breakfast supplied, eaten, then on the road. 

A small distance out of town the climb begins-" hills are my friend" is our mantra (thanks Craig). Pretty steep, but only 100-150m up, then over for an 18% descent. It was here my oranges escaped and beat me down the hill.

Met a lovely fellow Juan  or John from Geelong. An Aussie these days but born in Spain. 

We pass an auberge in an old monastery, we had planed to stay here but in sits in the middle our days travel so move on. The complete lack of electricity could have been interesting...

The bridge that can be seen has been built in the C16, C18 and retopped in the C21!

We walk through seemingly endless fields of wheat, oats and barley. We learn as we walk that this is the Canal de Castilla, part to a 200km canal system built in C18-C19 to provide transport for excess grain. Now provides essential irrigation to the Meseta.

Eventually we enter the town of Fromista. We hear that the Moors when they took over this town, thought it had so much going for it that they burned it to the ground and left! We find it has a splendid romanist church, and wonderful WiFi ( or weefee in Spanish). The municipal e auberge here is pleasant, airy and clean. Good meal next door in hotel: standard pelligrino menu €10.

21 June Fromista to Caron de Los condes

I would describe today as a plain day, left Fromista with a bunch of other pilgrims and followed the road for a while, eventually leaving that to follow one of the many waterways.

Lunch near a 13th century church, undergoing major restoration, thankfully as it is quite beautiful. 

Next town 6 Km away so I think we set a record getting there, it's hot and we are desparate for beer.

Our accommodation is in an old convent tonight, quite austere. Run by a funny fellow who we nicknamed pedro. Quite particular about keys and making sure we were safe. Dinner of cheese, bickies and just a tad of red wine.

19 June Hornillos to Castrojeriz

Left "El Molena" today, apparently the crew stayed here when "the way" was filmed. We met again an American mother traveling with her daughters, luckily the oldest daughter is a Spanish teacher! Handy! Hi to Mary, madi and Ali.

We got a lift a little way along the path- just as well. It was back to the wet muddy slog, that just got colder as the day progressed. Soaked through, the bottom half anyway, and down to 10C! We were also lucky (?) to get some of the last of the beds in town- thank god.

Spent the nigh in the second municipal albergue, st Juan. Pretty old with concrete bunk beds. Went to bed early as we were very cold, woke a couple of hours later in a sweat! seems our sleeping bags are ok. Woke to the sounds of gregorian chants and a monk/pelligrinos with a candle....we think that they were real ( add the doo doo...doo doo music here). 

18th June Burgos to hornillios del camino

Another long stretch out of town, not fans of the cities. At least the sun is shining. Morning tea about 10k later In The village of Tarjados, laughs with few of those we keep bumping into now.

First introduction to the meseta (plateau) today, bit of climb, at least it a nice gradual one, to then be followed by many kilometres of amazing landscape. We were fortunate it was not too hot, has the reputation of being fairly relentless heat normally. There was a cool breeze that caressed the ears of grain, showing a multitude of shades of green as it danced across the many fields. 

Finally a steeper descent into Hornillis del Camino, here a kindly shopkeeper( the only one in town actually) helped organise our transport to "El Molina". 

Here we spent an extravagant night with a beautiful meal, followed by sleeping in our own room! Just two of us! Real sheets! Proper towels that are larger than a handkerchief! And don't smell! 

Later this day the wind picked up, rain began to fall.